This step by step guide helps you to remove old grout and then re-grout existing wall tiles found in showers and bathrooms.
Step 1 – Removing the old Grout
You simply chisel out the old grout. You must use a thin chisel such as an old flathead screwdriver. The trick is to tap lightly and to hold the screwdriver at a 45-degree angle to the grout. If you pound straight ahead, you will chip tiles.
The other important step in this process is to chip “away from” grout that is in place. However, once you have a half inch or so removed, you need to chisel towards the place you just removed grout from. You are simply trying to expose the sides of the tile or the unglazed portion. If you try to chisel too deeply you will chip the tile.
NEVER drive the chisel down in between two tiles! This will crack tiles.
Occasionally you will have to gently scrape little bits of grout from the edges of tile. Take your time.
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There are two hand methods you can use to remove old grout. The remainder of the grout may crumble when you use a carbide tipped scraper tool specifically designed for grout removal. The carbide tipped scrapers can be found at most stores that sell ceramic tiles. They are very inexpensive. Be careful, as they can easily scratch the glazed tile surface. You apply firm but gentle pressure as you draw the scraper across the grout. It may take repeated strokes before you remove a significant portion of the grout. Move on when you expose the unglazed edges of the tile.
If you own or can borrow a Dremel tool, this may be your best bet. These tools are variable speed hand held grinders. You can purchase up to 72 different tips to do just about any job. One of the tips will grind grout. If you do not like the sound of a dentist’s drill, this may not be for you!
No matter which way you go, be sure to lay an old blanket or drop cloth in the tub/shower area. Grout chips, if stepped on, will easily scratch a tub or shower surface.
Step 2 – Regrouting
Installing ceramic tile grout requires two tools. A good sponge plus a hard rubber float that has a crisp edge. These floats can be found at virtually any tile specialty shop. Do not get a rubber float that looks like it has a sponge pad! I want a float that has smooth rubber.
The sponge is very important. Grout sponges are synthetic and have rounded edges, NO sharp 90 degree angles anywhere. I like to use a sponge that measures approximately 120mm by 180mm and is 50mm thick. You will need two clean 20 litre buckets and a 75mm wide mixing knife or spatula.
Mix the grout by hand until it resembles the consistency of Pancake mix, fairly stiff. It should be able to stick onto a knife without any trouble. I do not want it as thick as peanut butter. As you begin to mix, the grout will seem lumpy. Mix it for about two minutes and just let it sit for three minutes. Spend this time getting warm water into the other clean bucket. When you get back with the water, you will notice that the lumps disappear with a little additional mixing.
Start at the highest point and work down. I want you to grout about half a square metre at a time. Use the mixing knife to apply a wad of grout to the tile. Then wet the rubber float. Using back and forth strokes, bulldoze the grout across the tile. Always cross over the grout joints between tiles at a 45-degree angle while holding the rubber float at a 45-degree angle. Grout will get all over the tile and it will look a mess! That’s OK. The grout lines will look fat and messy at this time. Remove as much excess from the tile as possible with the rubber float. Pull the float across the tile at a 45-degree angle to remove the excess grout.
Striking the Joints
Now for the fun part! Take the sponge and immerse it in the water. Squeeze the sponge to remove ALL water. Then gently rub the sponge across the face of the tile in a circular motion. The sponge will quickly fill up with grout. Rinse it out and squeeze the sponge dry again. Do this over the area you grouted until the tile looks fairly clean. The joints will still look fairly rough.
Rinse the sponge again. Now, turn the sponge on its edge. Run the sponge lightly up and down a grout line. You will notice that you can control the amount of grout in a joint by the amount of pressure you apply. More pressure, less grout in the joint. I like my joints about 3mm or slightly less. Do this process on all grout lines and it will look first class. Rinse the sponge frequently. Take your time; if you try to hurry, you could spoil the finish.
If you did everything correctly, the joints will look perfect. However, there is still a haze on the tile. Wait about one hour or so until the grout firms up, and you can remove the haze with a clean and practically dry sponge.
Also, do not grout between the tub and the first row of tile. This joint should be caulked. Grout will get into this joint as you do the rest. No problem. Just use a toothpick to remove it as soon as you finish striking the joints above it. The soft grout will readily come out with the tooth pick. Let the new grout dry 24 hours before using the shower. Any grout haze on the tile will come off with a soft towel.
For the space between the first row of tile and the tub or shower base use a specific caulking compound made for just this job. It is available at most Hardware stores.
Handy Hint – Regrout Shower / Bathroom provided by Maroochydore Handyman.
If the job looks a bit tough, do not hesitate to contact us.
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